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Part Two.

Although the first Godiva Banquet on the 21st January 1956 has significance for the Coventry Section it also occurred in the aftermath of an Annual Dinner of an even greater significance to the club as whole. The Annual Rally had been held down at the new Fishers Green works at Stevenage on the 10th September 1955 followed by the Annual Dinner at the Dorothy Café in Cambridge.  It was at this dinner that the President, Phillip Vincent made sure that the club were the first to know that Vincent’s were ceasing production.  As the chairman Bill Hindes put it in his response, we were now a Vintage motorcycle club.  Despite that the marque and the club had a strong presence at the Motor Cycle Show thanks to their two strong trade supporters, Avon tyres and Filtrate oil.  In fact there was even a Vincent at the show, the Burns and Wright record breaker was proudly displayed on the Avon stand and both stands had a strong Owners Club presence with many new members being enrolled.

There was now a stronger incentive for existing owners to join the club.  Despite assurances from the factory that spares would still be available joining the one make club seemed to be an excellent insurance policy.  One of the attractions was the services of  a Technical Officer to answer members queries, who in those days was known as the Mutual Aid Officer.  The man in question was Bruce Main Smith but he was shortly to move on to greater things joining the staff of Motor Cycling and writing and road testing for them.  His place was taken in May ‘56 by John S. Edwards of 25 The Park Paling Coventry, thus starting a long tradition of Coventry Section members serving on the Executive Committee.  There was a certain inevitability about it because of the way the club was structured: there is a direct link between Executive and the Sections via the Section Organisers sitting on the General Committee.  Especially in those days, when there were few local sections, keen local members are always in the direct line of fire.

The Emerging Section.

Although undoubtedly most of the new members enrolled at the Show were existing owners there was another factor coming in to play.  Although the bike was no less desirable it was becoming more affordable.  A really good one could be bought for less than the price of a new Triumph for example and Triumphs themselves were now within reach of more prospective owners.  The week after the Godiva Banquet a twenty year old Rootes Pupil, Chris Chandler, signed the attendance book for the first time having just bought MNK 14 from Conway’s in Goldhawk Rd.  Chris’ MNK was an ex-factory hack. When Chris bought it it had been chopped about to accept a Series D type Armstrong combined spring and damper unit. This gave what might charitably be described as an amusing cornering action. This was cured by drastically re engineering the RFM and supporting it by a Velocettesque rear sub frame and Girling units.  Another Rootes pupil, John Macdonald, who had a Series B Rapide joined around the same time.  Over the next few years a number of other young riders with similar backgrounds in the car industry and engineering generally joined the Section whose names will crop up in due time.  It marked a period when, not only in Coventry but in the club as a whole, new members like Chris and John took a keen and active interest in competition.  The Motor Cycling Club’s High Speed reliability trials at Silverstone, a.k.a. One Hour Blinds were the starting point but the keener types were riding in National events and sprinting was also becoming popular with classes for road machines.

All this was in addition to the normal section activities.  In one of his first section surveys Allan Nash reporting on a discussion on the future programme said “if you tell me what you want in the way of runs, trials, film shows etc the committee will organise them for you.  A full programme ………..for the next three months, with a slide show on the whys and wherefores of continental touring. We’re also having a run to the Birmingham Section, a mystery run, a Sunday club run and our Annual Navigation Trial.”  Mention of the run to the Birmingham section is of interest because there were quite a few coming down the A45 the other way every week. One of them was Ron Hovenden.  Ron had been Frazer Nash’s service manager and moved up here to work for Lucas when Frazer Nash closed bringing his B Rapide, JLT447 with him. Ron kept it immaculate and rode it hard, it was already ten years old and it had never had a spanner used in anger on it.  The only work ever done was a couple of updates. The works replaced the Bramptons with Girdraulics and also when pool petrol was abolished the heads and barrels lifted and new 7:1 pistons fitted. Not bad for a ten year old bike we thought.  We regarded it with some affection, almost a Section mascot. Ron took it with him to the Isle of Man when he retired, still going strong, still in absolutely original condition.

On the 15th June 1985 we held our 1500th meeting and in the attendance book is Chris Chandler, JLT447 B Rapide.  Ron had sold it to someone who didn’t use it; it then passed to a collector.  MNK14 was long gone and Chris was keeping his Vincenteering alive with a Comet. He convinced the then owner that a Comet was a better bet for his fleet than a twin and a swap was arranged. Only when it had done an exceedingly high mileage did Chris finally give a proper overhaul.

The Annual Rally.

As a result of the ending of Vincent production the 1955 Annual Rally was the last to be held in Stevenage. Early in the year there were rumblings in MPH about the need for a suitable venue. Coventry Section stepped into the breach and the 1956 Rally was held at Standard’s recreation ground in Broad Lane and the dinner at the Leofric Hotel thus starting a habit which was to continue for a number of years.

The driving force behind these rallies was our section Organiser, Allan Nash, who in 1960 was elected social Secretary of the VOC. The first ones followed the Stevenage format, rally in the afternoon, dinner in the evening, with the additional feature, the concourse, which previously had been held somewhere else at some other meeting.  These days the emphasis is on originality, in those days it was what is now called bling. The serial winner over the years was Frank Alexander’s bright red Shadow.  As Phillip Vincent said when he gave out the awards at the dinner they were all much better prepared than when they left the factory.  If we were lucky during the afternoon the ladies netball team would be playing a match - almost as good as beach volleyball. One year the entertainment was provided by Roy Charlton, who had brought Rumblegutz along to show us.  He used to tow it behind his car.  No trailer just the bike, running on its rear wheel and connected to the car by the simple expedient of removing the front wheel and attaching it to an articulated coupling via the wheel spindle.  This was long before Avon slicks and burn outs, the tyre that was good enough for sprinting was good enough for towing.  We kidded him to start it.  This was a push start job with him on it in his racing crouch.  I forget whether the engine had actually started or not when the whole lot fell over.  There is no way you can keep a bike upright when you’ve forgotten to unlock the steering.  It had a positive lock for steering purposes.

Coventry rallies only stopped after 1962.  That year the use of the Standard venue was lost and the rally had to be re-located to the Butts Public car park at fairly short notice and with the co-operation of the City Council.  Standard had been taken over by Leyland Motors and no one up at Leyland could be found to give permission for the Broad Lane site to be used.  The next year it was held at the Belfry Country Hotel, now better known for its golf course. Marvellous venue, shame about the meal, there were catering problems. There was also a call for it to move south so 1964 it was at the Skyway Hotel, with a fine view of Heathrow.  Sanity prevailed in 1965 and it came back to the Belfry

This was the last time that the rally and dinner were held on the same day.  Allan had arranged a VOC Sprint at Church Lawford the day after the Rally.  A number of members camped there and made a weekend of it.  Continental riders there were a honeymooning Mr. and Mrs. Fritz Egli on two somewhat special Vincent’s, a single and a twin.  From the success of this weekend came the idea that the rally should be a two day event and so the following year the rally was at Stanford Hall  in July and the annual dinner was at the Regent Hotel in Leamington in October. It was at this dinner when the guest Howard Davies who lived just up the road at Chadwick End met Phillip Vincent for the first time.

So far strictly speaking as far as the Section History is concerned we’ve only got to the end of 1956. As I bought my first Vincent in January 1957 I may perhaps be able to include some personal reminiscences in the next episode as we move fairly quickly into the swinging sixties

George Spence, April 2012

<Back    Part One.    Part Two.    Part Three.    Part Four.   Part Five.   Part Six.   Part Seven.  Part Eight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Springs and seats.

 

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

 

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

 

 

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

 

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

 

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

 

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

 

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

 

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

 

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

 

 

girling springs

 

 

David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:


Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

 

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

 

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

 

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

 

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

 

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

 

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

 

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

 

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

 

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

 

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

 

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

 

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

 

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

 

 

girling springs

 

 

David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:


Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

 

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

 

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

 

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

 

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

 

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

 

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

 

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

 

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

 spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

Springs and seats.

As I have discussed on the damper pages, the standard rear springs are very short and stiff because they were only designed for the friction damped “B” series, so they make very little use of the available suspension travel.

The well-known Petteford springs are good, but at 189 lb/in they are rather stiff and have little or no pre-load.

Softer springs with more preload can make better use of the available suspension travel without increasing bottoming out, so they are more comfortable.

Fortuitously, Girling rear springs are of a diameter that is a good fit in the Vincent spring cases. New spring platforms are needed to replace the claws.

It is important to put a chamfer on the face that abuts the inside of the spring boxes, as the inside of the spring box end is not flat. Make these custom “platforms” as thin as practical, as the springs are on the long side.

adapter for girling springs

Spring Compressor

A spring compressor will probably be needed to compress the springs so they can be fitted to the bike.

Eddy Grew has devised an easily made device to do the job, details here: - Spring Compressor

spring compressor

What Spring Rate?

Obviously, partly sprung bikes can use softer springs than fully sprung bikes and bikes mainly used solo can use softer springs than bikes used for two up touring.

I note that PEI said that the rear springs carry 66% of the rider weight and 100% of the passenger weight. (This is for the standard semi-sprung arrangement of course.)

My testing has all been with a fully sprung bike mainly used solo.

I was surprised how well 100 lb/in Girling springs worked, and they may be just right for a solo rider with a semi-sprung seat. I had expected them to be much too soft, but with the good damping they worked very well, giving a very comfortable ride. I used them for several months. I eventually decided that they bottomed out a little too much. I could have reduced or cured this by increasing the preload, but I like a low saddle height so I decided to use stiffer springs.

I now use the Girling 132 or 145 lb/inch springs, which are just right. For the 132lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64539963 (black) or 64543764 (chrome), paint code red/orange, free length 8.47 inch. For the 145lb springs, these are Girling part numbers 64543818 (black) or 64544234 (chrome) paint code blue/yellow, free length 8.19 inches. Both are made from 0.282 inch diameter wire.

Most of the many varieties of Girling springs available are too long for our purposes. I found a simple way to shorten springs that are only slightly overlong. Close up fully with some stout studding, apply hot air gun to one end only. Leave to cool while stress creep takes effect. This works surprising well, so well that I overdid the first one. Reversing the process was trickier and best avoided, so proceed with caution.

Note that replica Girling units often use springs of slightly larger diameter than the genuine Girling springs, and are unsuitable as they are likely to jam in the cases, as I found out.

If you can’t find Girling springs at reasonable prices, custom made springs are likely to cost around £50 a pair. This could be greatly reduced if you can find four other people to share an order for ten springs.

Girling Springs.

Colours refer to identification marking. 3 splashes in the order Primary-Secondary-Primary

girling springs


David Kitrosser in Massachusetts sent us some feedback that you might find useful:

Thanks for the work on dampers.  Some feedback:
I am now using the AVO dampers Front (TA1447) and Rear (TA1446 ) and one each Girling 64539963 (132 lb/in) and 905463(?) (126 lb/in) springs. 
Fully sprung seat.  Little bit higher than I'd like but tolerable.  Springs only shortened by 1/8 inch or so.  (If shortened more, the damper doesn't go to full extension without the springs rattling loose?)  Springs fit without compressing first with damper at full extension. 
No change to mudguard positioning.  Seat rear links adjusted so seat just clears mudguard at full compression.   With my wife (125 lb) on the rear, me on the front (160 lb), appears to just bottom out on good size bumps according to an observer (watching gap between seat and mudguard) following behind.  Bottoming out not at all noticeable to riders.

Seats

A quick comment on the seat supplied by the VOC Spares Company, which is the most comfortable seat I have used.

I made a slight mistake in ordering the long version. All of the extra length is added to the passengers part, and when the seat is fully sprung, it collides with the rear lifting handle.

So I would strongly recommend these seats for comfort, but don’t buy the long version unless it is really needed!

Girdraulic Forks

After I had got the rear suspension working well, it was more apparent that the front forks had a rather harsh action, so I embarked on what became a rather lengthy attempt to understand and improve them.

Summary here: LINK TO FOLLOW!

If you wish to contact me: - Click here to email Rob Staley

Rob Staley, 20 September 2015

 

AVO Dampers | Springs and Seats

 

AVO Dampers for B, C, & D Series Vincents | Springs and Seats

 

AVO Dampers for B, C, & D Series Vincents | Springs and Seats

AVO Dampers for B, C, & D Series Vincents | Springs and Seats

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